Not quite Condrieu


Condrieu is that rare French gift to novice wine drinkers: the single grape apellation. Unfortunately, it is an expensive gift: wines from this 105-hectacre region in Côtes du Rhône regularly start at $50/bottle, and availability is scarce.

Photo by Liza Daly

American and Australian winemakers have been quick to capitalize on the rising popularity of the Viognier grape, but Condrieu’s unique sandy soil (called arzelle) has proven almost impossible to replicate. One solution for the would-be visitors to the church of Condrieu: visit the neighbors.

Cuilleron does make highly-rated true Condrieu, but the Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes is grown just outside the AOC, and is considered by authorities to be just as good, if not better, than Condrieus bearing the appellation.

Your wallet will certainly agree: this wine will run between $20-30 USD. That’s not an every day price, but it’s not an every day wine, with its pronounced perfume and well-rounded peachiness. I loved it, but if I want more Viognier, I’m staying out of Condrieu.

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