Wine Sediments

Most days, I have some wine with dinner, say, “Hmm, I like that,” and then go on with my life. Once in a while, I stumble on a bottle that makes we want to grab strangers by the lapels, shake vigorously, and then recite a treatise on delicious fruitiness and notes of pineapple.

The 2004 Planeta La Segreta Bianco was such a bottle. It’s produced by the Planeta winery in Sambuca, Sicily; the estate is run by Francesca Planeta, “one of the young celebrities of Italian wine” according to the comprehensive tome Vino Italiano.

La Segreta (”secret”) is a blend of Chardonnay and grecanico; the latter is indigenous to Sicily (although sometimes considered to be Greek in origin, hence the name). In the hot Mediterranean weather Sicilian Chardonnay ripens to a “tropical fruit bomb” while native grecanico retains freshness and brightening acidity. The product of the two is an almost overwhelming aroma of pineapple tempered with a hint of acidity and a refreshing citrus finish. It paired reasonably well with ravioli in a light mushroom sauce but there’s no question that this is a New World-style wine. The powerful fruit might be best enjoyed solo, on a warm sunny veranda, an experience I will have absolutely no opportunity to enjoy for another nine months.