Wine Sediments

Mike Dunne of the Sacramento Bee recently felt the wrath of those who love their chardonays oaky after writing that no-oak chardonnays were gaining in popularity. In a debate whose intensity seemed more fit to a discussion of important social issues, Dunne heard from many of his readers:

A couple of them were irked that anyone would suggest that chardonnay could be interesting if it wasn’t fermented or aged in oak barrels. One was peeved enough to say she hoped that a winery that just had released a chardonnay made without wood would fail. Another said she was fed up with wine columnists trying to dictate what she should drink.

The surprising thing about those two responses was how mean-spirited they were. Passionate discourse is the custom in the wine community as residents swap opinions about their experiences and enthusiasms, but almost always, it remains civil.

Dunne, a well-respected wine expert, then does what such a respected expert should not have to do - he apologized. He told readers that he did not intend to tell them what they should like. But, Mike, you didn’t do that. You did exactly what you say wine columnists should do! You shared information with us!

If readers then want to try this or that wine for themselves, fine, but I don’t think wine columnists usually view their palate and preferences as dictatorial. One of the first things people learn when bitten by the wine bug is that the world of wine is too big and too diverse for anyone to even try to presume they know what’s best for anyone else.

Granted, some wine columnists can come off priggish, dismissing some varietals and styles as below them and not worthy of serious contemplation. Me, I’ve long appreciated white zinfandel, though not every version ever made.

After this serious discussion of the role of a wine columnist, Dunne gets back to the reason I read his articles - he teaches us. This time, he shares interesting facts like (1) more chardonnay grapes are planted in California than any other grape, (2) of every four bottles of California wine sold in the United States, one is a chardonnay, and (3) 56 million cases of chardonnay were sold in the United States in 2004, double that of merlot.

Dunne thinks that in addition to having a name that is easy to say, chardonnay is popular because: “It generally is pleasant and refreshing, filling the mouth with fresh fruit flavors that can range from apple to pineapple. It can be simple, or it can be complex. Countless examples are available in every price niche. It’s often a little sweet.”

Dunne also offers a few oaky chardonnay recommendations for your tasting pleasure: Cambria Estate Vineyards and Winery 2003 Santa Maria Valley Bench Break Vineyard Chardonnay ($25), Simi Winery 2004 Russian River Valley Reserve Chardonnay ($25), DeLoach Vineyards 2004 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($16), Davis Bynum 2003 Russian River Valley Limited Edition Chardonnay ($25), Selby Winery 2004 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($28), and Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery 2004 Alexander Valley Chardonnay ($28).