A One-Night Stand Worth Repeating
By Jamie Gabrini
I never buy the same bottle twice.
Okay, never is a strong word. I rarely buy the same bottle twice; always on the hunt for something new and weird, I feel, well, boring if I repeat a wine. I make exceptions for new vintages, of course, but even then, I try to get around it by sampling at work. Tasting is one of the few perks, after all, and I do cash in.
And, I admit, I make exceptions for those rare wines that I enjoyed so much the first go-around that I sneak another bottle to see if Im misremembering some fantabluousness that didnt actually exist. Im usually even happier upon second tasting to find that yes, it really is that good. Today, dear readers, Im pleased to review just such a wine.
Domaine Monpertuis 2001 Cpage Counoise rocks. Theres no way around it: the wine simply rocks. While working for a retailer in Manhattan, Id picked it up to serve with a ratatouille I was hankering to make. I was impressed by the depth and complexity of such an inexpensive wine. I scurried back to work and scribbled down a shelf-talker, raving like a banshee about it. And wouldn’t you know it? About two weeks later, it was listed in New York Magazine as one of the best bargain wines around.
What makes this lil non-anecdote so interesting is that the wine is made entirely from the Counoise grape, which is rarely bottled on its own. Counoise is one of the Chateauneuf thirteen and is often blended into southern Rhnes, Languedocs, and Roussillons. Its typically used to add acidity and spiciness to wines. I dont know of any other single bottlings of it, but Im sure its possible that theyre out there. After tasting Domaine Monpertuis version, Im certain there ought to be!
Darkly red, theres still a tinge of purple even though its already five years old, and its almost opaque in the glass. The nose is full of iron - I usually claim wines smell like blood because I catch aromas similar to rare roast beef, but calling a wine bloody seems to freak some people out. The fruit is rather subdued on the nose, but look for cassis and a distinctly vegetal quality. The palate is consistent with the nose, loaded with cassis and brambly spiciness. The peppery quality of Counoise is present, though not overblown. And heres the best part of all: in Manhattan, the regular retail price for this was about $9.99 certainly a bargain! But in Buffalo, I found it for $6.99! How is this possible? What madman priced this? I have no idea, but when I find out, hes getting a big ol juicy Counoise kiss from yours truly.
While Im enjoying it on its own as I type, the Counoise is itching to be served with something. Id love to have this with a pizza-style foccaccia. Id grill some artichokes, zucchini, peppers, and tomatoes over foccaccia and sprinkle it with feta and olives; the complimentary saltiness of the cheese and olives would certainly accentuate the spice of the wine. Or, if youre really lazy, and therefore are one of my brethren, serve a tray of marinated artichokes, grilled veg, olives, and cheese. Id love to allow the wine to play with different cheese textures and weave throughout the strong flavors.
At $7 a pop, this certainly does seem like a wine Ill be buying more of. Im ruined.
I am off to a mamouth French wine trade fair tomorrow - I’ll see if I can track down any varietall bottlings of this grape. I doubt I’ll find any though; I didnt even realise it was bottled on its own until now!